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Jonathan Riss rose to global acclaim with luxury womenswear label Jay Ahr, shaped by his lifelong passion for embroidery. What began as a personal hobby at the age of 20, while living in India, evolved into a distinctive signature craft and the meticulous reworking of vintage Louis Vuitton Keepall bags.
For his latest project, 'A Collection of Vintage Hermès Icons Transformed', the Hong Kong-based designer sourced and reimagined 1,000 vintage Hermès pieces, spanning more than 70 years of the brand’s history. Using the iconic Kelly, Birkin and Sellier models as his canvas, each creation is entirely one of a kind, inspired by the bag’s provenance, with its precious history delicately woven into a visual narrative upon the surface.
Each bag takes an average of six months to complete, with approximately 20 artisans involved throughout the process. Once purchased, the bag is carefully dismantled and treated to restore it to a form as close to perfection as possible. Before any embroidery is applied, numerous trials are conducted, as even the smallest mistake can be very costly.
His team uses specialised machines to ensure consistent tension across every thread, preserving the integrity and longevity of the embroidery. Each bag remains fully functional, a wearable work of art.
